Baboyang Walang Amoy Or Odorless Pigpen Episode 1.pinoyhowto How to raise. How To Set Up P.I.G.S. Babuyang Walang Amoy (Updated) Upload, share, download and embed your videos. Watch premium and official videos free online. BABOYANG WALANG AMOY. Electronics Syllabus Pdf Download edit and convert your PDF files to Word, Power. Point, and Excel docs. Shows used TCP and.
On June 22, 2011, PCARRD and PCAMRD was consolidated and is now known as the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development or PCAARRD. WELCOME! This forum is venue for the dynamic exchange of knowledge and experience among experts, farmers, and industry practitioners in the agriculture, aquatic and natural resources (AANR) sectors.
As our clients, we value your comments and inquiries. Reminder: Please use the SEARCH FUNCTION first before creating a new topic. To all backyard swine beginners and experienced baboyeros alike, After suggestions from friends, we are opening this thread to re-open the deleted thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy, Deep Bedding System'.
The new title shall cover expanded topics to discuss alternative feeds to the more costly commercial feeds, and also to discuss ways on how to solve the continuing lower cost of live weight prices. We also believe that this thread should discuss lower cost of pig housing so that the savings can be used to buying piglets and feeds to start the business the soonest possible time. All contributors from regions in the Philippines and even abroad are invited and welcomed to contribute in this thread whether they are tested effective practices. For beginners to emulate or constructive postings, to improve on existing practices. If someone has posted a question related to the above topic, we would appreciate an answer from those experts or experienced members. BTW, for the benefit of all members, while it is easy to delete one's own post, it is not easy to delete one's own thread. Here are the procedures to delete one's own thread: 1.
Go to the top of PCAARRD Message Board Message Central Spam Reporting and if you see a posting by Admin, click on the date in 'blue'. 2, You will be forwarded to a screen where you will be allowed to email the administrator regarding your request to delete your own thread. You will receive an email later that your request was granted. You can now go to the thread that you want to be deleted. You may now delete your own thread and all posts of other members in that thread. In the the other section, the high cost of yellow corn nowadays is causing the upward movement of animal feed's cost, even for those who are mixing their own animal feed. Somebody mentioned that a combination of rice bran and vegetable oil or used cooking oil (waste from fastfood chain or restaurants) will provide the required metabolized energy required by the pig.
This is an alternative that backyard raisers may look into in order to minimize the effect of high cost of yellow corn. I also mentioned in the other sections that a study done in Colombia that was published by the Food Administration Organization of the United Nations, that crude palm oil or palm oil fruit could be used as substitute, partly or wholly, for sorghum (more or less equivalent to yellow corn in terms of nutritional value). Also, fresh fruit of oil palm is rich in beta carotene, similar to yellow corn. In certain areas in Mindanao (Surigao, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Davao, etc.) and the provinces of Bohol and Palawan are now developing oil palm plantations. Hog raisers in those areas may have the option to use palm oil fruits or its by-products in animal feed. Wintuha wrote: Wrangler, Try to calculate the crude protein and metabolized energy of the mixture of copra meal, yellow corn and rice bran. For grower na 35-60 kg and required cp is around 18% and metabolized energy is 3000 kcal/kg Kung yung 4 ingredients lang gagamitin mo, mejo mahirap ipa 18% crude protein since copra is about 20%CP, and palm kernel meal is about 19%CP.
I dont know nga lang how the CP would differ from fresh palm to palm kernel meal. If you wanted to reach 18%CP that would mean almost 85%PKM is to 15%d1 74%Copra is to 26%d1 91%PKM is to 9%corn 84%PKM is to 16% corn Siguro if you add soybean meal mas plausible pa to come up with a balanced ration. But kung pang dagdag lang tlga sa pagkain ng baboy para di maxado magastos sa feed cost, then dont sweat it too much. Basta di maxado na-affect performance di ba? Trial and error nlng to which ratio is best! What I mean sir is yung mga feedstuff na nabangit ko eh bale ihahalo ko lang po sa daily ration ng mga finisher ko. Pero syempre ang main purpose ko is to lessen my cost of production ko kasi may corn field, at may mga coconut naman kami dito at ang rice bran ay mabibili ko lang sa murang halaga kasi may rice mill ang tito ko.
That's why if ihahalo ko na mga yun babawasan ko naman yung amount of commercial feeds na binibigay. Pero di ko alam if maganda outcome nito kasi hindi ko alam ang level ng mga cp content, calcium, ME and other minerals na maibabawas sa commercial feeds ko and di ko rin alam kung pano ito i-replace by adding available feedstuffs in our locality. What happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na.
While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy.
And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon.
Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na.
While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis.
Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir Fapper, Musta na? Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C. Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros. I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy.
Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S. I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs. The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S. System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po. I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members. With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products.
Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all. Duckduck wrote: GABAY SA KABUHAYAN AND PICS OF PIGS: 1. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF THE SOURCE OF MATERIALS: 2. TRIPLE CROSS FINISHERS: 3. TRIPLE CROSS PIGS; HYBRID PIGS: 4. SOW LINE AND BOAR LINE: 5. DOMINANT TRAITS AND RECESSIVE TRAITS: 6.
WHITE COLOR PIGS; COLORED PIGS: 7. BACK-CROSSING OF PIGS: 8.
PHILIPPINE NATIVE PIG: Based on prior postings, this pic of the native Philippines pig is just to show the origin of our Philippine pig and not necessarily to be used in the breeding program of modern slaughter pigs, unless a breeder is engage of breeding pigs exclusively for lechon purposes who have exclusive markets for native pigs. BERKSHIRE BOAR: This pig got its name and originated from England, county of Berhshire and is known as Britain's oldest pig breed. According to internet information, this is a rare breed of pig originating from Berkshire, England. In the United States this pig was established by the American Berkshire Association. The pig have large ears and are erect or slightly leaning forward. The legs are short and straight and have a straight underline belly as you can see from the picture.
Berkshire pork is noted for its juiciness, good flavor, pink color meat and terdenness. They are also called a 'small farm pig' noted for its ability to sow farm fields and live in free ranges. Please click on this link: 10.
HAMPSHIRE BOAR: This is a domestic breed of pig that has erect eard and and a black body with whitish band around the shoulder of the body covering the front legs. This pig is said to have originated from Hampshire, England and later exported to the United States. They are noted for being well-muscled, big boned, grows rapidly and produce good meat.
When used as breeding stock, the sows of this breed are good mothers and good tempered. LANDRACE SOW: Landrace, just like the LargeWhites have white skin and and don't have black hair in their bodies. However, the Landrace are lop-eared pigs compared with the LargeWhites, with a long middle, light forequarters, and very good ham development. There were major faults observed with the Original Landrace such as weak legs, splay legs and nervous disorders. This is probably why the modern breeders have to cross-breed them with the LargeWhites and other breeds.
LARGEWHITE BOAR:The Large White pig is rugged and hardy, and can withstand a wide of climates. Its use is in crossbreeding or hybrid breeding programs with the most popular cross being is with the Landrace breed. This cross is ofter used as the maternal line in commercial breeding.
A 3rd breed such as from a Duroc line is often used as a terminal sire. Market demands for low amounts of fat and high levels of lean meat made way to breeding programs such as the triple way by introducing the Duroc blood to a cross between the LargeWhite and the Landrace. Largewhite sows were noted for their large litter size and heavy milk production, good mothering ability and strong legs and feet. These traits make them ideal for longer production results of the sows. Large Whites have white skin and don't have black hair in their bodies.
They are big boned and large-framed, having a long middle and light shoulders. Their legs are longer compared to other breeds and have long deep sides. The head is moderately long with the face slightly dished, and the ears are pricked upwards.
DUROC BOAR: Based on internet information that I found, in 1823, Isaac Frink of Milton in Saratoga County, New York, obtained from Harry Kelsey of Florida New York, a red boar, one of a litter of ten pigs. The sire and dam of these pigs were probably imported from England. Kelsey happened to own a famous trotting stallion named Duroc, so Mr.
Frink named his red boar in honour of the horse. This boar was known for his smoothness and carcase quality. Duroc's 'the pig' progeny continued the Duroc name and many of them inherited his colour, quick growth and maturity, deep body, broad ham and shoulder, and quiet disposition. Further breeding development of its progeny gave its offspring the tenacity and docility towards its young and made it an ideal candidate for an outdoor pig, either as a dam or sire, and its succulence and heavy muscling makes it very suitable for anything from light pork to heavy hog production. Further research funded by the MLC has investigated the Duroc’s claim to produce high levels of tenderness. This has led to a recommendation to include Duroc genetics as part of the meat quality Blueprint. DUROC BOAR#2: Please read the internet information about the Duroc Boar on no.
PIETRAIN BOAR: Again based on internet information that I got, the breed is of medium size and has white with black spots. Around the black spots there are characteristic rings of light pigmentation that carries white hair. The breed is commonly referred to as being of piebald markings. The ears are erect. The Pietrain breed is renowned for its very high yield of lean meat but this is often associated with the presence of the halothane gene for Porcine Stress Syndrome.
For this reason the use of purebred Pietrain in British pig production is relatively rare and it is most commonly found in crossbred and synthetic terminal sire lines. A small number of purebred herds are maintained to supply stock for breeding programmes. DUROC/PIETRAIN BOAR: As the name implies, this is the crossbreeding of a Pure Duroc boar to a Pure Pietrain sow or vice versa, between a Pure Pietrain boar to a Pure Duroc Sow. The result is a cross breed of Duroc/Pietrain or Pietrain/Duroc breed. In a study of breeding these two breeds in Vietnam, the internet information stated that the result was as stated below: 'The average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and thickness of crossbred sires (Duroc/Pietrain and Pietrain/Duroc) were remarkably improved compared to purebred ones (PP and PD). The semen quality of these crossbred sires was much higher than that of purebred sires. When using these crossbred boars (DP and PD) as terminal sires for meat production, the average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and backfat thickness was improved significantly in fattening pigs during the period of 60 – 180 days old, and their lean meat was also increased by 1.71 – 3.37%.
MEISHAN SOW FROM CHINA: This pic of the Meishan Sow from China, based on prior postings, has similar reasons as in the explanation in the Philippines Native Pig and should not be considered a basis for breeding our modern slauther pigs. Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na.
While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D.
And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir fapper, good day po, baguhan po ako dito, sir pwde ba makahingi ng pics ng dbs mo, plano ko din magstart ng piggery, if ok lang po, pakisend sa [email protected] thank you very much. Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread?
Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis.
Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon.
Sir Fapper, Musta na? Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C. Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros.
I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy. Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S. I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs. The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S. System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po.
I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members. With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products. Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all. Sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much. Utakpulvoron wrote: yeah, i gathered as much, but we will never truly know the nutritional values the commercial feedmakers use.
So the best way to approach your issue, is by adding a balanced ration to the commercial feeds you are giving. In which case para ka narin nagself mix sarili mong feeds. Mahirap rin kasi magformulate not knowing the nutritional value of fresh palm, and kung wala SBM or synthetic lysine mahirap mameet yung proper lysine balance. A good source of lysine that could be home made is germinated beans such as mongo or togue (raw mat for lumpia na togue). There are several reading materials available in the internet regarding germinated or sprouted mongo beans. You can preserve the sprouted mongo beans by mixing it with molasses on 1:1 ratio, fermented togue. Wagner72 wrote: sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much.
Sir wagner72, cencia na ngayon lang 12/23 ako nakabalik sa tirahan ko. Since 12/20 kasi ay sinugod ako ng ambulancia sa hospital dahil nagkaroon ako ng heart attack at ngayon lang ako nilabas. Anyway kinompleto ko lang ang descriptions ng bawat pic ng pigs na pinaguusapan natin sa thread na ito at sana ay magpost din ang ibang experienced members natin sa forum. Anomang tulong galing sa mga kasama natin ay most appreciated po.
I will proceed in posting pics and step by step procedures on how I converted my existing concrete structure into a modified DBS pig housing. I would advise you, Sir Wagner, to always come back here to see more postings from our experienced friends so that you will learn more about the DBS setup.
However, if you will only visit the thread of 'Tarlac Hog Raisers Forum' and magtiaga kang magbasa from start to finish, ay baka hindi na kelangan magbasa ka pa rito dahil kompleto na ang malalaman mo sa pagbababoyan sa thread na yon. When I say kompleto ay.as in KOMPLETO talaga. Kagaya ng ibang members ay duon din sa thread na yon ako nagkaroon ng idea na pasukin ang pagbababoyan. Mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila?
Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig?
Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito. Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO. Nhelmercs wrote: mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila? Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig?
Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito. Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO. Sir nhelmercs, Kung hindi ako nagkakamali ay ito ang pic ng DBS mo, paki confirm lang po: Ito po ang mga napansin ko sa setup ng DBS mo: 1. Ang labangan (pakainan or feeding troughs) ay walang rebar dividers na 8' apart na dapat ay makapasok lang ang ulo ng biik para kumain.
Dahil dito, pag oras ng pagkain ay nakakapasok ang buong katawan nila sa loob ng labangan at duon na pati sila tumatae, umiihi, nagpapahinga at magloblob. Ito marahil ang dahilan kaya sila nagtatae na dahil contaminated na ang feeding troughs ng kanilang tae at ihi.
Kahit linisin mo ang loob ng labangan ay may mga bad bacteria na ang labangan na puedeng pagmulan ng sakit that your eyes can not see. Wala pa akong masyadong experience, pero palagay ko patingnan mo na sa vet ang mga biik mo bago lumala ang pagtatae nila. Ang cement flooring sa harap ng labangan or feeding troughs (PAHINGAHAN) ay dapat ipantay mo sa hollow block edge ng pool, para pagnaglinis ay deretso agad sa loob ng pool area ang maruming tubig. Magtambak ka lang ng mga bato bato bago ka magbuhos sa cement flooring para manipis na lang ang concrete at menos ka sa gastos sa concrete mix. Ang pool ay dapat may butas sa gilid ng wall para duon lalabas ang mga maruming tubig tuwing maglilinis. Araw araw ang paglinis at dapat ang butas ay may pasak na pvc pipe sa labas na paitaas ang kadugtong para pag nakataas ay puede mong punuin ng tubig ang pool pero hindi tatagas sa open canal sa labas.
Pag ibinaba mo naman ang pvc pipe extension sa labas ay saka lang aawas ang tubig papunta sa open canal sa labas. Ang lahat ng maruming tubig na aawas sa open canal sa labas ay dapat deretso na sa septic tank na gagawin mo kadugtong ng open canal sa labas ng wall. Pag may nakita kang solid na mga tae sa DBS area (pahingahan at laruan), or sa loob ng pool or sa ibabaw ng concrete flooring (pahingahan), damputin mo ng dash pan at itapon sa labas sa compost pile para don mainitan at later ay maging fertilizer. In the meantime ay huwag ka na munang magpakain sa labangan. Maglagay ka na lang muna ng conventional na pakainan sa concrete cement flooring para maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Ang conventional pakainan ay dapat may divider din para hindi sila makapasok sa loob.
Hindi pa lang siguro sanay sa DBS area ang mga biik mo. Besides, bukod sa DBS area ay meron pa silang 3 napupuntahan lugar na pahingahan, which were the labangan na may pagkain, concrete cement flooring na normal na pahingahan din ng mga biik, at ang pool na normal ding gusto nilang puntahan at paglaruan. Ang importante ay gamutin mo ang pagtatae nila para maging healthy sila. Paglaki nila ay masasanay din sila sa DBS area. Hope this helps. I stand to be corrected po. Sir Wagner72, Ito po ang pics ng mga tanim na kinakain ng mga baboy: 1.
Indigofera: 2. Flemengia: 3. Madre de Agua: 5.
Oil Palm tree seedlings: Marami na akong tanim na Madre de Agua sa farm ko at may pakinabang na rin sa merienda ng mga baboy. Meron na rin akong tanim na 100 Oil Palm Tree seedlings sa buong paligid ng farm ko and I expect them to start bearing fruits for the pigs 18 months from now. I am arranging to buy 50 seedlings of nos. 1, 2 and 3 para itanim ko pa sa paligid ng farm. As usual I am always looking for alternative plants that can reduce my feed cost. Mga Kuyang, Ito ang design ng DBS farrowing pens ni Sir Eioz.
So far ito ang pinaggayahan ng DBS farrowing pens ko, ni nhelmercs, at ni Sir Kenbats: Pic no. 2: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ko na ginaya ko sa design ni Sir Eioz, although hindi namin nakopya eksakto dahil hindi pa sanay magwelding ang farm worker ko: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ni Sir Kenbats, also patterned after Sir Eioz's design with some modifications. According to Kenneth, wala daw silang mortality sa design na ito.
Lalagyan daw nia ng steel railings ang paligid na bakod dahil mababa daw at nakakatalon na sa kabila ang mga biik. So far, Sir Kenbats and nhelmercs are attesting that this design of Eioz of the DBS farrowing pen were proven effective.
To those who wants to fabricate an auto feeder, here are some pics that can help: 1. My auto feeder in action. Sir Wintuha's welder fabricated this for me and I can have it duplicated anytime now. BTW, the 15-capacity P.I.G.S. Ay gumastos lang ako ng P22,000 by using mumurahin na materiales. The auto feeder assembled: 3. The auto feeder disassembled, from left to right.a) the inverted cone on top of the tire, b) the big cyclone tank or 'feed holder', c) the small round cylinder or 'feed outlet' with the G.I.
Pipe inside it. Note: Yong pong malaking tanke ay water tank at hindi po part ng auto feeder: 4. Big cyclone tank or 'feed holder' about 15” in diameter, with a cone shape G.I. Sheet welded at the bottom also. This is fixed on top of the 'cylinder/feed outlet' with paddle, which is the movable part: 5. The inverted cone G.I.Sheet gauge 16 welded to the tire rim that serves as the base of the cylinder for easy movement by the pigs. Sa ibaba po ay ang tire or goma ng truck, to serve as the base of the tire rim where the inverted cone G.I.
Sheet is to be welded to serve as the base of the cylinder/feed outlet. Note also that a 1” washer is welded on top of the inverted cone to serve as clearance of the bottom of the cylinder/feed outlet where the feed come out once the pig rotates or move upward the cylinder. The 1” washer can be a 'cut portion' of a G.I. Pipe and it can be made shorter or longer than 1” depending on the desired 'feed clearance': 6. The small round cylinder or 'feed outlet', that is 1 foot height and 7.5” in diameter with paddle made of corrugated bar 9mm diameter (“4” shape for easy movement or “ungkal” by the pigs): 7.
Front to rear. Pipe, b)Feed Outlet or big cyclone tank, and c) Feed Holder or small round cylinder. Wagner72, ito na ang request mo. Dito ko na nilagay para makita din ng iba. Actually dito ko lang nakuha ang idea ng P.I.G.S.
Please click on the link. I just modified the layout inside at pinagitna ko ang pool sa feeding troughs to separate the feeding troughs from the DBS area. Sa ganon, ay dadaan muna ang mga baboy sa pool bago makarating sa feeding troughs pag kakain na.
Malilinis ang mga paa nila pagdaan sa pool at maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Posting pics of how I built my modified P.I.G.S.
(Profitable Indigenous Growing System in You Tube) pig housing in my farm. The 20-capacity P.I.G.S. Was completed on June 30, 2011 and we successfully raised 15 piglets to maturity in it without any problem. Total cost of the P.I.G.S. Ay P22K, which is suited for backyard farmers that have low budget. The framings are made of bamboos that my farm workers harvested in the forest for free. Naglagay lang sila ng konting hollow block walls sa existing cement rik-rap ng garden plot at doon ibinaon ang mga bamboo posts: 2.
Close-up ng bamboo framings: 3. Nagkahugis na ang P.I.G.S.
Nilagyan nila ng bubong agad para hindi sila naarawan pagtrabaho sa loob. Naghukay ng 1 meter lalim sa lupa: 5. Naglalagay ng bato bato bago magbuhos ng concrete mix para makatipid sa concrete mix. Hindi naman kasi masyado mabigat ang mga baboy kaya kahit manipis lang ang concrete mix ay puede na: 6. Bago magbuhos ay nilagyan ng aggregate ang ibabaw ng mga bato bato. Mapapansin na naglagay na rin ng mga DBS materials sa hinukay na 1 meter lalim sa lupa. Iba ibang layers ng DBS materials and nilagay sa hukay: 7.
Tapos na rin ang concrete floor area at magbubuhos na lang sa flooring ng pool: 8. Nabuhusan na ng concrete mix ang flooring ng pool: 9. Ng matapos na ang plumbing works ay ito na ang hitsura ng P.I.G.S. Hindi pa nagawa ang open canal at septic tank sa labas: 10.
Nilagyan ko ng 15 piglets ang P.I.G.S. Mapapansin na masaya silang naglalaro sa DBS area. Nagtatakbuhan dahil may tumatawag sa kanila para kumain na.: 11. Sa una ay gamit nila ang auto feeder: 12. Pinakakain din namin sila ng mga dahon ng madre de agua, dahon ng malungay, dahon ng kamote, at mga root crops such as laman ng kamote: 13. Ng lumaki na sila ay masikip na ang auto feeder, kaya pinatangal ko na at sa concrete feeding troughs na sila kumakain. Konti na lang ang natitira sa kanila ngayon dahil ang 4 na babae ay pinili ng vet na gawing gilts at ang iba ay kinakatay namin at binibenta ng retail dahil napakababa ang live weight price.
Sir Fapper and mga kuyang, Ilan ang nabenta ninyong baboy ng retail ngayong pasko? Kami ay nakapagkatay lang ng 2 baboy nitong nakaraang bisperas ng pasko. Pati 2 ulo merong bumili. Malapit na rin kaming magkatay ng paisa isa para sa freezer sa farm dahil parami na ng parami ang bumibili ng frozen meat na mga kapitbahay namin. Pati mga kakilala sa bayan ay may bumibili na rin ng frozen meat. Magkakatay daw uli sila ng 2 baboy bisperas ng New Year.
Kasalakuyang nagpapagawa ako ng maliliit na P.I.G.S., 10-capacity each at balak kong lagyan ng mga biik na iba iba ang edad para hindi na ako maubusan ng mga baboy na kakatayin ng paunti-unti. Mukhang mas simple pa ang magalaga na lang ng mga finishing hogs.
Here is the pic of 1 of 4 small 10-capacity P.I.G.S. Ko still under construction. Meron akong 2 pang partitions na lupa pa ang flooring na kadugtong ng DBS farrowing pens ko. Ang size ng 2 partitions ay 12 feet W x 39 feet L each, meron ng NIPA roofing, concrete posts and walls. Kaya pinalagyan ko na lang ng hollow block walls sa gitna ng bawat partitions sa pagitan ng concrete posts para maging 4 na small P.I.G.S.
10-capacity each. Posting pics of my DBS pig housing. Meron na akong existing structure with NIPA roofing, kaya I just modified it into a DBS pig housing patterned after the design of Kuyang C. Di hamak na low cost compared to Kuyang C's, pero sinunod ko naman ang major specs and I think mine is equally effective. Ang loob ng structure ay lupa kaya cenemento ko na lang at nilagyan ng feeding troughs and plumbing works. Ang loob ang pahingahan at pakainan sa mga baboy.
Ang labas ang open DBS area at open na paliguan ng mga baboy. Construction of the pool area: 3. Binuhusan na ang flooring ng pool: 4. Hinuhukay na ang 1 meter lalim sa lupa para sa DBS area: 5. Naglatag ng mga bato bato at the bottom of the 1 meter lalim na hukay. Dahil nasa labas ang DBS area ay minabuti namin na ang pinakailalim at second layer ay designed as septic tank para mabilis ang seepage ng tubig mula sa ibabaw ng DBS area.
Second layer from the bottom ay pinatungan namin ng aggregate na binili namin mula sa mga kumukuha sa ilog. Tapos pinatungan namin ng mga dinurog na balat ng niyog. Marami sa amin nito at binibigay lang ng libre ng mga gumagawa ng copra.
Kung wala sa lugar ninyo ay puedeng wala na rin nito. My mixer mixing the soil, sand and IPA. Then the soil and IPA only 9.
After the layers of soil/sand/ipa and soil/IPA and at the very top the layer of IPA only. Finished and ready to use except for minor plumber works. Nilagyan ko ng 2 gilts and I think they enjoy their outdoor DBS area and pool.
Ang 2 gilts sa pic no. Ay nilipat ko na sa DBS farrowing pen sa kabila at itong conventional pen with open DBS area ay ginawa ko na lang community pen ng mga gilts at palakasan ng sow na bagong walay sa mga biik. Dito ko nilipat ang 4 na gilts na pinili ng vet para pagpractisan namin na gawing sow. Mapapansin na maluwag pa sila sa loob. Naglalandi na raw sila pero sabi ng vet ay wala pa sa edad, kaya sa Feb. Or March pa scheduled ang AI nila: 13. Matapos kumain ay deretso sila sa labas para tumae at umihi duon sa sulok.
Tapos ay sa pool at open DBS area para magpahinga. Dalawa baboy pinakatay ko nuon dec 24 kuyang d. Yun nga lang madami natirang buto buto dahil ang trip ng mga mamimili pala pag christmas ay bbq at puro laman, porkchop at liempo ang gusto nila. Kaya eto puno ng butobuto ang ref namin. Hopefully ma dispose ko rin during the week before new year. Madami din nagkatay dito sa barangay namin nuon 24 (ang sabi sakin na matador ko 8 heads na baboy ang schedule nya that day including my two) pero madali lang ma dispose.
Hindi ko pa nasubukan mag frozen meat pero eto din ang balak ko balang araw. Pinag aaralan ko pa ang marketing sa pag katay. Mas gugustuhin ko sana mag benta ng liveweight pero kung papatol ako sa ganitong klase ng marketing at sa presyo ng mga biyahero ngayon, ang best possible scenario ay break even lang ako which is not good enough dahil ang tagal matutulog ang pera sa baboy. Atleast sa pakatay mababa na ang 1000 pesos na net profit kahit pa panget o bansot ang baboy pag pinakatay kikita parin ng konti. Ingat lang po sa pautang ang piliin mabuti ang papautangin. Sir Ronski, Palagay ko unti unti ay madedevelop natin ang profitable marketing ng mga baboy natin.
Si Sir Fapper, balita ko ay ganon na rin ang experience.profitable na rin. I think if there is any requirements from the authorities later on, we can easily comply with them. We can always post here any experience we encountered.good or bad para makapagisip tayo ng solusyon for all members to benefit. So far sa mga pautang namin, nakolekta pa rin namin lahat. Kasi sa barangay lang namin kami nagbebenta sa ngayon at kilala namin sila lahat.
Isa pa ay kababata ko ang barangay captain namin kaya madali ng humingi ng tulong. Sianga pala, bago nabura yong original thread, ay pinaguusapan natin kung puede tayo mamili ng live weight na baboy at alagaan muna natin bago katayin.
Palagay ko sa lugar ninyo ay marami ng may DBS kaya madali ka ng makapamili ng live weight basta taasan mo lang ng P5 or P10 per kilo compared sa buying price ng mga biahero. Pag kinatay mo ay malaki pa rin profit mo at wala ka pang hirap sa pagpalaki ng baboy. In our case na halos lahat ay conventional pens pa rin ang pig housing nila, ay halos pareho lang ang ibebenta namin sa mga binibenta ng lahat sa palengke. Alagan lang namin ng at least 2 weeks para masigurado na healthy at malinis ang mga baboy. Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman. Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal.
Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili. Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na. Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper. Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman. Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal.
Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili. Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na. Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper. Sa Bulacan at Zambales ginagawa ko na ito at lagi namang nauubos bukod sa pautang, merun bili ng cash sa amin kc mas mura kaysa palengke.
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Mga Kuyang and Ateng, baka balak nyong gumamit ng bamboos sa low-cost P.I.G.S. Ninyo ay makakatulong ito in bamboo preservation para maging matibay ang gagamiting bamboos. Methods of Preserving Bamboo Broad Grouping: 1. Non-chemical or traditional method; 2. Chemical method A.
Non-chemical method: 1. Soaking in running water - culms are submerged in running water as in a river or creek for two to three months, then air-dried. This reduces the starch content of the culms thus improving their resistance to powder post beetles but not to termites or fungi. Smoking - culms are cut into desired lengths and placed above the kitchen stove until they turn sooty black.
The exposure to heat and smoke protects the culms against bio-deterioration. Whitewashing - round or split bamboo is painted with cooked lime to prevent the entry of moisture which favors fungal growth 4.
Mud coating - the bamboo culms are coated with mud to prevent beetle harborage. Common Chemical Method: 1. Non-pressure methods a. Spraying or brushing - Spray or brush the chemical solution on the bamboo culms.
This prophylactic treatment has a temporary effect because the penetration of preservatives is very shallow. Soaking - used in treating small pieces of bamboos. Completely submerge the culms pieces in the chemical solution.
Halved drum joined end to end or ground pits lined with plastic sheets may be used as treating troughs. Sap replacement -Let freshly cut culms with branches and leaves still intact, stand in a container with 5 to 10 liters of preservative solution. Through cell respiration and leaf transpiration, the solution is drawn up the stem. Pressure Method - Dry poles are placed inside a cylinder and the preservative is forced through pressure application. FPRDI has developed a system for chemically treating freshly cut bamboo poles by pressure method using High Pressure Sap Displacement (HPSD) treating equipment Preservative Chemicals: The common chemicals for protecting bamboo culms are Cislin, Fermay Plus, Timbor and CCA Cislin -is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide which is non-staining, can be easily diluted with water and biodegradable. Recommended for treating bamboo against boring insects at 0.01% level. Recommmended Cislin Treatment Solution: Mix 4 milliliters Cislin with 1 liter of water Farmay Plus- this is broad spectrum fungicide which is effective against molds, staining and decay fungi.
Comparable with such insecticides as Cislin and Timbor The recommnded concentration is 0.2% Recommended Farmay Plus treatment solution considers the athmospheric condition during the rainy season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 5 parts water. During the dry season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 200 parts water Timbor - This colorless preservative has disodium octaborate tetrahydrate as active ingredient. It is effective against bamboo boring insects at 10% level Timbor is suited for treating bamboo that will be used only indoors because the chemical leaches out when exposed outdoors.
Recommended Timbor treatment solution: Dissolve 1 part Timbor in 10 parts water CCA - Chromated Copper Arsenate - comes in paste form. It is water-borne effective against bamboo boring insects and fungal decay at 5% CCA is comparatively cheaper than the other chemicals but leaves a green coloring on the treated material. It should be used for furniture or craft products only when green coloring is desired or if these will be stained. Recommended CCA treatment solution: Dissolve 1.0 kg of CCA in 20 liters of water. Treatment Procedure: Cislin and Timbor are insecticides only. To make the treatment solution effective against both insects and fungi, add the recommended concentration of Farmay Plus to either Cislin or Timbor.
Boric acid is also a fungicide which can be mixed with Timbor in a 1:1 proportion. Soak the materials to be protected in the prepared Cislin and Farmay Plus solution for 5 minutes. Brush or spray the solution on the materials. Or, soak the materials in the prepared Timbor-Farmay Plus or Timbor-boric acid solution for 2 hours. Allow to dry in slanting position on supports so bottom ends do not touch the ground. Or, soak the materials in the prepared CCA solution. The length of soaking time depends on the condition to which the materials will be exposed, namely: Condition of use Soaking Period Indoor 3 days outdoor not in contact with ground 5 days Outdoor in contact with ground 7 days In water/wet 10 days Source: Bamboo Processing Training Manual, Forest Products Research and Development Institute (FPRDI), College Laguna, July 1999.
Bamboo Seasoning Bamboo should be dried to the moisture level of the surroundings to remain stable and free of the drying-related defects. Well seasoned bamboo has a number of advantages that include improved strength properties and less likelihood of damaging fungi and insect attack. Seasoning can be done through natural or artificial means: natural, by air drying; artificial, under controlled conditions or kiln drying. Information on bamboo treatment with Borax and Boric Acid (Shared by Dr. Eric Cleuren) Borax and boric acid are widely recognized as relatively cheap, efficient and less harmful chemicals for treating bamboo (they are not completely harmless and therefore contact with the skin should be avoided during the treatment process).
The extra advantage is that it has a fire-retardant effect on the treated bamboo. METHOD: The most widely used formula is a proportion of 1:1 in a 2% to 5% solution Use dry bamboo and submerge it in 1 kg borax + 1 kg boric acid + 50 l of water. You can also dilute it more (100 l of water) or less (25 l) according to the kind of product and its use, but 50 l is a good average. Both products dilute much better in warm water, so start with a small amount of warm water before adding it to the large bath) Keep the bamboo submerged at least during 24 hours and 48 hours if possible. Dry the bamboo afterwards protected from direct sun light, horizontally (because vertical may enhance the drying process and cause cracks) The solutions can be used several times, but that depends on the starch content of your bamboo.
How to know that the solution can be used for another time? Apply Litmus paper before and after the submersion and when the Ph level has changed drastically, it is time to replace the solution. The prices in the Philippines: 1 kg borax: 40 pesos 1 kg boric acid: 70 pesos. Other pointers in bamboo preservation: Preservation of Bamboo in Service: By Walter Liese (Chair for Wood Biology, Hamburg University, Germany) Abstract: Bamboo culms are an excellent material for countless applications.
Their wider use for construction is encouraged by the growing scarcity of timber. Since bamboo has a low natural resistance, protection against biological degradation is of vital importance for long term service. Protective measures without chemicals are preferable, but often limited in their effectiveness. When using preservatives, the restricted permeability of culm tissue, choice of preservative and treatment method and environmental effects as well as economical aspects have to be considered. Keywords: Bamboo, deterioration, permeability, protection, preservation, preservatives, treatment techniques, environment, economics According to the constitution of the Academy, the phrase 'wood science' covers 'lignified natural materials' of which bamboo is an important component.
The Academy Lecture given at the IUFRO World Congress 1986 in Ljubijana deait with 'Research on Bamboo'. On this occasion I want to be more specific with the 'Protection of Bamboo in Service'.
There is no other country in the worid, in which bamboo plays such a major role as a multi-purpose commodity as in China, with a total area of about 4. Ha bamboo forest, a production of 2. Tons shoots, 12 mill.
Tons of culms, partly converted in about 200 mills into over 1 millon m3 panels of various products. The China bamboo industry contributes about 2.
2 billion USD annually to its economy, and goods for 400 mill. USD are exported. 6 million people are working with bamboo, of which 4.
5 in the forest and 1. 1 million in factories. Therefore bamboo has to be on the agenda of this conference with at least one paper.
Bamboo in Service: Among the many uses, bamboo is an important construction material, such as scaffolding, bridges, shelters, towers and for simple and modern engineered structures. Bamboo houses provide homes for a billion people, not only in rural areas, where it is considered as a cheap, replaceable material.
Its wider use as a substitute for wood is supported by the increasing scarcity and expense of timber in several bamboo producing countries. Its wider acceptances however is often hindered due to problems with biological degradation of the raw material, construction components as well as finished products. A wide range of protective procedures, including chemical preservation methods are known, but not regularly applied. The reasons are lack of knowledge about possibilities for bamboo protection, lack of adequate treatment facilities and chemical preservatives, uncertainty about its economics and lack of demand for treated bamboo components.
Protection of this versatile material, especially in areas where longer service life is desired, can result in immense social and economical benefits. An increase in bamboo availability would facilitate employment potential, save processing and labor costs, which would otherwise occur due to frequent replacement of degraded bamboo components. In the following only a brief overview about some facts and problems can be presented. Details are given in the 'Bamboo Preservation Compendium' by W. Kumar, presently as INBAR Technical Report 22 in print.
Natural durability: For its utilization bamboo has a few serious obstacles, mainly its low durability against biodegradation and its low penetrability for preservatives. Bamboo culms do not produce any toxic substances during their lifetime, unlike the heartwood of many trees.
In contrast to timber, a bamboo culm consists of about 40% parenchyma cells which are filled with nutritious starch, even in older culms. Only in flowering bamboo, the starch is used up for the seed production. Much belief exists that the cutting around the full moon phase may result in an increased resistance. This is also said for timber but detailed investigations have been unable to substantiate these claims. Starch affects the susceptibility against borers and blue-stain fungi, so that harvesting during or after the rainy season, when starch content is lowest, reduces incipient attack during storage. The common water-storage of fresh culms has a similar effect, since the starch is degraded, mainly by bac.
While fairly new, the practice of natural hog raising or “Babuyang Walang Amoy” in the Philippines, has increased steadfastly through the years. More and more Filipinos, both experienced farmers and those new to farming, have begun to adopt this technology of growing healthy pigs.
Many new farmers have built their own backyard “Babuyang Walang Amoy” using indigenous and even recyclable materials available in their surroundings. And many current backyard raisers have also opted to convert their existing conventional pens into this more economical and sustainable technology. There is more to the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” (literally “piggery with no smell”) technology than being just odor-free. While its most distinct feature is being free from bad odor that is present in most conventional piggeries, its most important feature is that it mimics the natural habitat of pigs, which allows for stress-free pigs that are less prone to sickness and diseases.
This technology is easier, cleaner, and more cost-effective for farmers, it reduces antibiotic dependency in pigs, it is environment and community-friendly, and it promotes humane animal treatment. Coupled with natural, antibiotic-free, fermentable feeds, the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” system produces meat that is natural, healthy, and safe for human consumption. Farmers are also able to further capitalize on this technology by going into other related ventures like organic farming, vermiculture, organic fertilizer production, pond aquaculture, and many more.
Using the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” technology, pigs are able to roam around freely within the pen on a soft bedding of organic materials – such as rice hulls, they are free to cool themselves off in a shallow wallowing pond, and they are able to exercise their natural behaviors like burrowing. BABUYANG WALANG AMOY CONSTRUCTION Location Before starting construction of a “Babuyang Walang Amoy” several factors have to be considered. The “Babuyang Walang Amoy” should be located in a place with ample sunlight penetration as sunlight is a natural disinfectant and also provides vitamin D for the animals. It is also important to note that the location must also allow for ample wind to flow through the piggery.
A cool environment helps foster more stress-free pigs. Make sure to avoid lowlands where flood incidence is high during rainy seasons. The earth flooring below the natural piggery must be at the highest possible level in case of flood.
And to make it easier, choose a location that is accessible to main roads. It will be easier to transport feeds to the piggery as well as transport harvested pigs from the piggery to be marketed. Space Requirements The basic parts of a “Babuyang Walang Amoy” are the bedding, wallowing pond, and feeding trough.
It is recommended to allocate about 1.5 to 2 square meters per pig for the bedding. The wallowing pond should be about 1 meter wide spanning the length of one side of the pen. The feeding trough is usually placed opposite the wallowing pond. The feeding trough is only about 10 inches wide – wide enough for the pig to eat from and narrow enough to prevent the pigs from sleeping on the trough.
In a typical “Babuyang Walang Amoy” with ten pigs, the dimensions of the pen are usually 4m x 5m for the bedding and 1m x 4m/5m for the pond for a total area of up to 25 square meters. Materials Needed Farmers can use whatever materials they have readily available in their areas. It is important that the materials used to construct the piggery are sturdy enough to withstand the elements and strong enough to hold the pigs inside the pen. Typical “Babuyang Walang Amoy” use a combination of concrete and bamboo or wood, and nipa, anahaw, or G.I. Sheet for the roof. Other materials that may be available can also be used as long as they do not potentially hurt or stress the pigs. The roof may either be shed type, semi-monitor, or monitor type.
When deciding which roof to make, it is important to make sure that the piggery allows for ample wind to circulate. Larger piggeries will benefit from semi-monitor or monitor type roofs that have openings at the top. Bedding It is recommended to use rice hull or other high lignin or organic materials as bedding. Some farmers have used wood chips, coffee shells, shredded corn cobs, saw dust, coco dust, and others. The bedding must be 2 to 3 feet deep and is placed above the soil/ground level.
There is no concrete flooring below the rice hull bedding. Wallowing Pond The wallowing pond should be about 1 meter wide spanning the length of one side of the pen. It is shallow and should be able to hold only up to 6 inches deep water. The pigs use the pond to cool off. They also usually defecate/urinate in one area of the pond.
Feeding Trough The feeding trough is located opposite and/or perpendicular the wallowing pond. It may also span the entire length of the piggery or at least long enough to accommodate all the pigs. The feeding trough is curved/half-circle inside and is about 8 inches wide and 6 inches tall inside.
Automatic Drinkers It is ideal to have automatic drinkers installed on the wall on the wallowing pond side of the pen. Any excess water will fall into the wallowing pond when the pig is drinking. There must be 1 drinker for every 3 pigs. It is recommended that the height of the drinker be adjustable. The drinker must be low enough for piglets to reach and must be adjusted higher as the piglets grow taller.
BABUYANG WALANG AMOY MANAGEMENT Maintaining the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” properly and timely not only ensures an odor-free and clean piggery but also assures stress-free pigs. Waste must be collected every now and then by sweeping it out from the pond or scooping it out the bedding. The waste can be set aside and used as fertilizer for plants. The bedding depth must also be maintained. From time to time the bedding sinks (due to the weight of the pigs) or gets wet, so it is important to add fresh bedding. After harvest, it is recommended to change all the bedding and replace to new bedding before new piglets are stocked. The wallowing pond must be filled with up to 6 inches deep water every morning and must be drained and cleaned every afternoon.
It is not advisable to leave water there overnight because the temperature of piggery area may become too cool for the pigs. FEEDING It is also important that the pigs are fed organic feed or natural feed, such as Feedpro, that contain no harmful antibiotics or harmful growth hormones. Some growers have experienced shortcomings when growing their pigs (e.g. Piggery has bad odor, growth targets are not achieved) because they use non-natural feeds. Feedpro follows the typical feeding program or feeding schedule of conventional feeds. It can be fed to pigs dry (which is the conventional way of feeding), wet, or fermented. To ferment feeds, Feedpro is soaked in water (1 kilo of feeds to 3 liters of water) for up to 12 hours.
The fermented feeds are then given to the pigs in its liquid form. Fermentation is recommended because it further stimulates the Probiotics in the feeds before they even reach the gut. Please note only Feedpro feeds from starter to finisher are allowed to be fermented. PROBIOTICS Feedpro natural feed contain select strains of Probiotics – live yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and organic acids – that all work together to improve the pigs’ gut health. In turn, it improves their digestion thereby allowing their bodies to optimally absorb the nutrients in the feeds. The Probiotics or good bacteria work by outnumbering the number of pathogens or harmful bacteria in the digestive tract and competing with these harmful bacteria for their food source.
Because of these healthy Probiotics, pigs are able to achieve the same growth rates or even better growth rates than conventional feeds that use antibiotics and medications.